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The Good Grape

Liz Marcucci — Thu, 06 Feb 2014 11:09:23 +0000

A single tiny grape may enclose a macrocosm of flavors: the sunlight, soil and rainfall of one corner of the world transformed and held under its taut skin. Perfectly content to be told this by a winemaker, we may raise a skeptical eyebrow when a chef waxes poetic about the possibilities of grapes as ingredients. From his priveleged position at the heart of the Valpolicella, Bruno Barbieri has developed an affinity for grapes. A fateful encounter with vintner Carlo Speri brougt local varieties into his kitchen and from that first taste, there was no turning back.
With the help of Speri, the chef was soon discovering the extraordinary flavors of the auctochthonous varieties forgotten by the winemaking industry, but not by this particular winemaker. Bigolona, Cabrosina, Dindarellla, Oseleta, Pipion, Rossanella, Rossignola… these are but a few of the ‘survivors’ identified by Speri and transformed by Barbieri into 28 extraordinary dishes. A quick scan of the titles demonstrates that the surprises are many and the pairings intriguiging: Marinated Scampi with Grape Granita, Risotto all’Amarone, Tuna Bites with Dindarella Grapes, Zuccotto with Rossignola Compote, Grape Terrine with Almond Fennel Ice Cream…
Though many books have proposed collaborations between chefs and winemakers, such teamwork rarely goes beyond a series of suggestions for pairing wine and food. Speri’s willingness to surrender the substance of his art to a transformation so radically different from his own and Barbieri’s willingness to go all-out for ingredients that come into the kitchen just once a year, represent a truly singular effort. But why should a grape be considered any less than a truffle, that other fickle ingredient that appears only in Autumn?
Whether viewed as an impassioned appeal for biodiversity or a fortuitous meeting of minds, The Good Grape returns us to the vineyard as Eden where all of the grapes are food for thought.

L'articolo The Good Grape proviene da Bibliotheca Culinaria.

Pasta Bakes and Gratins

Liz Marcucci — Thu, 16 Jan 2014 11:09:19 +0000

The kitchen is the hub of domestic life where daily routine is dominated by busy preparation and multi-tasking. Elegant all-in-one dishes that pass effortlessly from oven to table offer a welcome respite for hard-working cooks. As practical as they are delicious, pasta bakes and gratins are compatible with any budget and may be prepared in advance and baked later – the perfect time saving solution. These all-encompassing categories offer extraordinary variety: the endless and appetizing possibilities include lasagna, crepes, timbales and crumbles.
From a rustic carbonara bake to a vibrant spiced lasagna with four-cheese bechamel, from a delicate gnocchi gratin with asparagus to piquant bell peppers stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese, these comforting recipes are guaranteed to satisfy every desire for something richa and creamy in a casserole dish.

L'articolo Pasta Bakes and Gratins proviene da Bibliotheca Culinaria.

The Other Fish

Liz Marcucci — Thu, 02 Jan 2014 11:09:20 +0000

Delicate, healthy, tasty and versatile, fresh water fish are making a comeback. Relegated to the role of extra in menu menus until rather recently, the eternal “other” fish was ignored by many and entirely unknown to others. Long a proponent of the riches of Lake Garda, Leandro Luppi has shown not only that the time is right for putting fresh water fish in the spotlight, but that they are more than capable of stealing the show. Even the most ardent advocate of their salt water cousins will be surprised and delighted by the 28 recipes he offers in this book.
Determining freshness and rethinking cooking techniques are important steps toward real appreciation of the entire cast of characters: eel, tench, perch, lavaret, trout, lake sardines, crayfish and more. Luppi has resolved the more difficult task of deciding how best to use each type of fish and appropriately casts each as appetizer, soup, salad, finger food, entré, one-dish meal or as a fantastic foil for pasta and rice. These are dishes that lend a new meaning to the phrase “Gone fishing”.

L'articolo The Other Fish proviene da Bibliotheca Culinaria.